Dormant Seeding - If you didn’t get to over seed those bare areas last fall, dormant seeding is the next best time…. the idea behind dormant seeding is to take advantage of the freezing and thawing of the soil. When frozen, it honeycombs and opens up. Grass seed actually falls into the cracks, and when the soil thaws during the day, the soil closes over the seed…it’s the perfect natural seed bed. And usually mid to late February is the perfect time to experience this. We also need the soil to clear, and not covered with ice or heavy snow when we do this. That’s why we’re playing a waiting game right now for any dormant seeding. Now, I’m no weatherman, but based on past experiences, I would guess the current snow and ice will go away, and the freezing and thawing of the soil will still be happening into early and mid March. And if for some reason you don’t get to dormant seed and take advantage of the freezing and thawing, the next seeding time will be early spring…and then you’ll be needing to use a slice seeder, to get that good seed soil contact.
Clean-up- If you have left over dead foliage on perennials and ornamental grasses, cut it off, and get rid of the old foliage. This is important to do now, before the new growth begins to appear. It’s also important as some insects and diseases can over-winter in this stuff, so just get rid of it and get a cleaner start in spring.
Fertilizing - Perennials & Shrubs can be fertilized with Espoma Holly-Tone for acid loving plants & Plant-Tone for all others. These are nutrient rich, all organic fertilizers which will get your plants off to a great start this year.
Dormant pruning – Whole branch removal, selective pruning on evergreens, pruning of fruit trees, even cutting back those ornamental grasses…all pruning that is done while the plants are dormant.
And if you’re confused about the timing for pruning flowering trees and shrubs, just remember the general golden rule…if it flowers in the spring, prune after it finishes flowering. If it flowers in the summer (after June 1), prune it in the spring. And if you’re getting anxious to prune back those roses, don’t do it. Wait…at least until late March or early April. I’ll let you know when to cut your roses back.
Dormant sprays - Spraying horticultural oil while plants are dormant is a great way to help more…before they ever get started. Oils suffocate and causes cell destruction on these pesky control over winter insects and their eggs, such as mites, scale, aphids, mealybugs, adelgids, and insects. Make sure its above 45 degrees and no rain for 24 hours when dormant oil spraying. Scale on euonymus? Have fruit trees? Dormant sprays are for you.
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INDOOR SEEDING - If you’re thinking about starting seeds indoors this winter, good for you! Here are a few tips to help make you a bit more successful with your seed starting adventure: And here’s the most important thing to remember. Read the the seed packs and see how long it takes for germination and time for transplanting outdoors. Then count backwards from our frost free date which is around May 15. That’s when you start your seeds indoors. For tomatoes, it takes about 6-8 weeks, which means starting time is right around late March. And remember, it’s always better to start them a little late, rather than way too early. Here are the supplies you'll need:
POTTING MIX - For your growing medium, use a soil-less potting mix which is composed of sphagnum peat, perlite, and sometimes a little vermiculite. This mix is extremely important as it actually helps to hold moisture for the new seedlings, yet is airy and allows them to dry properly with less chance of getting dampening off, or rotting of the seedlings. This one even has a slow release fertilizer to help feed the seedlings very slowly and gently as they grow.
POTS- Something to grow your seedlings in…small pots, Jiffy Cubes, and of course these nice trays with cell packs are wonderful for starting your seeds.
LIGHT - Some type of shop light with regular florescent tubes will be needed to help supplement the much needed sunlight to keep your seedlings from stretching. Remember to keep the lights within inches of the new seedlings.
MISTING BOTTLE - This is one of the best ways to water your new seedlings, especially when they’re very young. Misting the soil is not so invasive and is easier to control the water flow.
